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Abnormal temperature head detected

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Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

This is one of the biggest challenging scenarios for a beginner. The Longer 3D printer is brand new and yet the assembling of the printer was easy but while attempting the first print, the printing process stopped in the middle of the print. Causing more in-depth problems revealing improper assemblies of parts and improper connections. On a mental note, in correcting these mistakes and connections from the beginning to build a proper working 3D printer, I’m hoping this is not a reoccurring problem with this Longer printer. Researching on Y-tube doesn’t always guarantee the problem will be fixed. There was several problems with this printer such as adjusting the head and bed temperature when detected. Checking the Bowden tubing for clogging and the the Nozzle too. Apply the temperature settings for the nozzle and bed when using different filaments.Check the thermistor for proper connection and heat block for cracks and heat transfer to and from the motherboard. All of these scenarios of arising problems can delay and detour the enthusiasm of the beginner. Solution: buy another new printer while fixing the new Longer printer?  

Thurman Steward

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Topic starter Posted : 20/09/2021 1:41 pm
Pablo
(@placherre)
Member Moderator

Hi Thurman!

I am sad about all the issues you encounter all the way. Despite being an upsetting start, I believe it is an excellent opportunity to learn about your printer. Which also will help you to understand more about other 3D printers with the same hardware. I know it isn’t satisfactory to have this experience with your brand new printer. All we want to do when we receive our new printer is to start printing right away. Sometimes, it takes some calibration and things to look before starting printing. I encourage you to keep working with these issues, I will be guiding you in all your questions and concerns. With this experience, you will obtain a lot of knowledge about the printers functionality and disassembling and assembling procedures. 

About the silicone cover, I recommend you to have it installed. Because it prevents temperature variations, maintaining it stable. Also, I suggest you have some spare ones.

Regarding the thermistor of the hot end, be aware of using the correct glue. Since the temperature is going to be somewhere around 210°C, the glue should be able to resist that temperature. Otherwise, the thermistor would come loose in the middle of the print and you will start having temperature readings problems. Also, if the thermistors fit correctly inside the hole, the reading will be very accurate. 

When cleaning the nozzle or the heat block, I recommend you to do it with the hot end close to the working temperature. This will help you to remove all the molten filament deposited. But, be very careful when doing this procedure; because you could burn your finger or damage another component. Also, I suggest you use safety goggles to protect your eyes from hot material projections. Performing this procedure will make it easier to remove the leftover filament and you won’t be scratching the components in order to remove the filament.

Another thing to consider is the Bowden tube assembling. When fitting both ends, make sure the tube is firmly connected to the couplers. If there is any relative movement between the tube and the couplers, you will end up having problems with the extrusion. The extruder will push the filament, but if the Bowden tube is loose, the filament won’t be extruded properly. Also, check there are no marks around the exterior of the Bowden tube where the couplers hold it. In order to avoid damage in the coupler collars or the tube, when disassembling the tube press and hold  the black collar of the coupler and then pull the tube's end. The idea of the black plastic collar of the coupler is to hold in place the Bowden tube. 

Another very important thing to have in mind is that the Bowden tube must touch the nozzle. Otherwise, melted filament will escape through the heat block thread and will end up covering the whole heat block. This is crucial, because part of the filament will only go out from the nozzle. The following picture shows in detail the correct position of the Bowden tube inside the heat block.

Bowden Tube Correct Possition

Once you have all cleaned and assembled, I suggest you check how the filament is coming out from the nozzle. The next picture will give an idea if there is a partial clog or obstruction that is affecting the extrusion. If the filament is going out straight, without curling, then there is no obstruction. On the other hand, if the filament is curling while going from the nozzle, then there is a partial clog in the feeding circuit.

Signs of Block Nozzle

About the length of the Bowden tube, it shouldn’t be too short (you already know why 😀 ) and too long is a problem too. If this is the case, the extruder will have to push the filament a longer path, affecting your printing. Because the friction between the filament and the tube is bigger. 

The positive aspect of changing the wire is that you can determine whether the problem is in the component or the board. Thanks to that diagnosis, we can confirm the problem is in the hot end temperature reading. According to the warning displayed in the main interface (or display) and the Longer website videos. Therefore, before continuing printing, I would suggest making a temperature calibration called PID autotuning. This calibration will set the correct values of the temperature control of your printer. It is a very easy concept to understand. If you haven’t seen the video in the course, I am sharing the link explaining what PID autotuning is: https://io3dp.kartra.com/portal/9nHS2XYsRq9c/post/329 . But, if you have any questions about it, let me know. In order to do this calibration, you will require a USB cable to connect your printer to your computer. Also, a driver which allows the computer to communicate with the printer. This driver will depend on the serial port chipset. Basically, this is the chip that allows serial protocol communication via UB. I have been doing some research and found that the Longer LK4 has a CH340 chipset. Would you confirm this? Near the USB connection you will see a small chip with a description on it, does it say CH340? Is the following board similar to yours?

Longer LK4 Mainboard   OP1

Once we tackle down the thermistor assembly and the PID autotuning values, the abnormal temperature issue should be solved. Still, there are a couple of things to work too in order to have a fully functional printer.

Regarding the chart I sent you, remember it is a reference value for the thermistor resistance. When checking this value, remember to unplug the printer from your power outlet. There are two reasons for this, the first one is safety (to avoid electrical hazards) and the second one is because resistance is measured without power (otherwise, you will damage your multimeter). Once you disconnected the thermistor from the main board, select MOhm or kOhm (resistance unit) in your multimeter (maybe it has an auto scaling) and then measure de value. Remember that a thermistor changes its resistance value according to the temperature. Therefore, if the room temperature is about 25°C (77°F), the resistance value measured in the multimeter should be about 100.000 Ohm. 

Did you also verify that the power unit power switch is placed according to the voltage of your house power outlet? This is important, because the power unit will supply the power for the selected voltage. If you have 220V in your house and the switch is placed in 110V, the printer will be damaged. On the other hand, if you have 110V in your house and the switch is selected at 220V, the printer will not provide enough power (specially for the bed and hot end heaters). Be very careful when handling electricity!

Just for curiosity, what printer did you buy? Once you get the LK4 up and running, you will end up having two working printers… 😉 

Let me know how it goes with the comments I made.

I am looking forward to your response.

Kind regards,

Pablo

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Posted : 20/09/2021 3:27 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Hello Pablo, great news first…everything we have discussed was corrected and replaced as instructed with the excellent materials to read and download, plus chat with those experts such as yourself Pablo…here at Institute of 3d Printing, United Kingdom. We have corrected those previous problems with abnormal temperatures detected. As I attempted to print again with all the corrections we made, other issues surfaced. Correct temperature to print filament, Printing not sticking, and the proper connection of the Bowden tide and coupling that secure the Bowden tube or PETG tubing. Problems will occur one after another to fine tune your printer to function properly.

How do you know what defects or imperfections are caused by the incorrect temperature or not?

Well one way to fine out is to simply fix your printer. The defects will revealed themselves in achieving a print. The hard or unseen knowledge is where problems exist and to your surprise this is where the individual gain experience in checking those temperatures and voltage, wire connections, bed leveling, assembly of parts, address errors which might occur that make these printers function properly.  The materials here at Institute of 3D printing is absolutely great. They have address many aspects of the printer itself and the problems that comes with it… great work.  

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 2:44 am
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Hello Pablo, great news first…everything we have discussed was corrected and replaced as instructed with the excellent materials to read and download, plus chat with those experts such as yourself Pablo…here at Institute of 3d Printing, United Kingdom. We have corrected those previous problems with abnormal temperatures detected. As I attempted to print again with all the corrections we made, other issues surfaced. Correct temperature to print filament, Printing not sticking, and the proper connection of the Bowden tide and coupling that secure the Bowden tube or PETG tubing. Problems will occur one after another to fine tune your printer to function properly. But now my print is not sticking…one last problem but before that completed print.

How do you know what defects or imperfections are caused by the incorrect temperature or not?

Well one way to fine out is to simply fix your printer. The defects will revealed themselves in achieving a print. The hard or unseen knowledge is where problems exist and to your surprise this is where the individual gain experience in checking those temperatures and voltage, wire connections, bed leveling, assembly of parts, address errors which might occur that make these printers function properly.  The materials here at Institute of 3D printing is absolutely great. They have address many aspects of the printer itself and the problems that comes with it… great work.  

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 4:06 am
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Hello Pablo, great news first…everything we have discussed was corrected and replaced as instructed with the excellent materials to read and download, plus chat with those experts such as yourself Pablo…here at Institute of 3d Printing, United Kingdom. We have corrected those previous problems with abnormal temperatures detected. As I attempted to print again with all the corrections we made, other issues surfaced. Correct temperature to print filament, Printing not sticking, and the proper connection of the Bowden tide and coupling that secure the Bowden tube or PETG tubing. Problems will occur one after another to fine tune your printer to function properly. But now my print is not sticking…one last problem but before that completed print.

How do you know what defects or imperfections are caused by the incorrect temperature or not?

Well one way to fine out is to simply fix your printer. The defects will revealed themselves in achieving a print. The hard or unseen knowledge is where problems exist and to your surprise this is where the individual gain experience in checking those temperatures and voltage, wire connections, bed leveling, assembly of parts, address errors which might occur that make these printers function properly.  The materials here at Institute of 3D printing is absolutely great. They have address many aspects of the printer itself and the problems that comes with it… great work.  

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 11:28 am
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

I’m glad I signed on with io3d printing. Learning how to address and fix problems that will arise from time after time is a good way to gain knowledge and experience first hand.

11:55 minutes into the print… there’s a little pealing around the corner of the base,but still printing.

 

Thurman Steward

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Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 11:40 am
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

On the PLA wheel it states “Printing Temp: 200 - 230 C. On the main interface with selecting the type of filament PLA temperature is will heat up to 200C as a maximum temperature but the print temperature start at 200 to 230 C for this type of PLA. All PLA material is printed at different temperatures as the material suggested in master class, good material to read. I selected setting ABS which starts at 200 - 230 and started the print. The layers begin to stick and the print is continuing with showing promising to finish the print,but it didn’t.

image

 

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 12:03 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

On the PLA wheel it states “Printing Temp: 200 - 230 C. On the main interface with selecting the type of filament PLA temperature is will heat up to 200C as a maximum temperature but the print temperature start at 200 to 230 C for this type of PLA. All PLA material is printed at different temperatures as the material suggested in master class, good material to read. I selected setting ABS which starts at 200 - 230 and started the print. The layers begin to stick and the print is continuing with showing promising to finish the print,but it didn’t.

image

 

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 12:06 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Beginning a new print of the whistle that takes about an 1 hour and 7 minutes with the temperature selected was PETG on the main interface at 215 C. I put more glue on the build area because of the peeling start after 5 to 7 minutes into the print. No problem with the detecting bed or nozzle temperature. Here at 7 :33 minutes into the whistle print things looking good:

 

Thurman Steward

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Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 12:16 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

 

Print temperature and Sticking heat…after an hour of printing of the whistle I’m getting good results from the process with no peeling around the edges. 

Thurman Steward

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Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 12:42 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Here is the completed print! Congratulations Pablo We did it! The knowledge I gain from completing the  mistakes that sometimes comes about in the beginning when assembling the parts need more detailing attention to address those hidden problems that’s not so obviously seen. Institute of 3D printing at United Kingdom  has plethora of reading materials, download documents and files, course layouts for beginners and advanced printers. Great staff members that reach out to you in addressing all of the issues that comes along with printing  and als

o with different types of 3D printers.

image

 

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 1:50 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Here is the completed print! Congratulations Pablo We did it! The knowledge I gain from completing the  mistakes that sometimes comes about in the beginning when assembling the parts need more detailing attention to address those hidden problems that’s not so obviously seen. Institute of 3D printing at United Kingdom  has plethora of reading materials, download documents and files, course layouts for beginners and advanced printers. Great staff members that reach out to you in addressing all of the issues that comes along with printing  and als

o with different types of 3D printers.

image

Off to a good start here with you guys… a special thanks to Pablo.. Now we can go forward with My brand New printer.🤗🙏❤️

 

Thurman Steward

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 1:58 pm
Thurman
(@thurman)
Famed Member

Even though on the main interface by selecting the PLA setting the temperature would be at the maximum of 200 C*. When reading the spool of the PLA filament it stated the Print Temperature is 200 - 230  C**. I selected the PETG at 215 - 230 C* for the bird print over three hours of printing with the build plate covered with glue adhesive so the print won’t peel. Just like the whistle that took one hour and seven minutes to print, the right temperature for the nozzle and bed was set before starting and the glue was applied to the build area for a complete print.

C9C5B79D 4E58 4CA9 9AFE B132C3EC3023

 

Thurman Steward

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Topic starter Posted : 26/09/2021 4:44 pm
Pablo
(@placherre)
Member Moderator

Hi Thurman!

I am so glad you were able to adjust your Longer printer! Looking at the pictures of the whistle, I can notice you achieved a very good print, congratulations! 😀 

Thank you very much for your kind words! I will make extensive salutations to the rest of the team… 😉 

I bet you gained a lot of knowledge with this experience. Good news! Now you have two printers to work with… 😎 

I would like to give you a couple of recommendations taking into account your comments. Since it is your first finished print after several attempts, it is fine to use a raft (the printed surface under the model). But, since your build plate is in good condition and it is not damaged, you could avoid using it. There are two main reasons: it adds printing time and it is wasted filament. However, this is a recommendation, feel free to keep using it until you feel more confident with your prints. Whenever you feel ready to print without a raft, you can change this setting under the Support feature by changing the Platform adhesion type setting to none. The following picture gives you a reference where to find this setting.

Longer Slicer   Settings

Regarding the adhesion helper, PLA doesn´t need one. Actually, the build plate temperature should not exceed 55°C. This is due to the Glass Transition Temperature (GT), which is close to 60°C for PLA. If the PLA reaches this temperature, the material will suffer an internal change (at a molecular degree) where the filament goes from a rigid behaviour to a more flexible one. Thus, feel free to modify this value in order to find the correct temperature. But, a 50-55°C range works fine for most PLA brands. Also, have in mind that a current of air may affect the build plate temperature (and the model cooling); therefore, remember to place the printer away from any air currents. 

Anyways, great job Thurman! All the recommendations I made above take them into account once you start to gain more confidence and experience with your prints. I believe you made a giant leap in the learning curve with all the problems you had gone through.

Feel free to ask us whatever comes into your  way, we will be glad to help you out. 

I wish you a happy printing!

Kind regards

Pablo

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Posted : 27/09/2021 2:06 pm
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